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    Welcome to Auckland's North Shore
    - Kate Methven - 9/1/98

    When the Auckland Harbour Bridge opened in 1959 it dramatically changed the shape and character of the North Shore. Originally mainly just a holiday place with some developed land around Devonport, Birkenhead and Northcote ( the places where ferry services operated from to the city), the easy road access has led to a building explosion creating a most desirable residential area with and interesting array of architectural styles.

    The official North Shore City area extends from Devonport in the south to Albany in the north and with 120km of coastline most residents live close to the sea. Summertime is an ideal time to explore the many bays and beaches, regional parks and walkways, so if you have time to spare when stopping over in Auckland, here are a few suggestions to help make your stay more enjoyable.

    Getting There
    From downtown Auckland there are three ways to travel to 'The Shore' - bus, boat or car. I think the most relaxed and enjoyable way is to take the ferry over to Devonport - it only takes ten minutes and you get great views of the Harbour Bridge and islands of the Hauraki Gulf on the way over. Buses are frequent and operate to all areas - just Buz-A-Bus on (09) 366-6400 for details. For more freedom to do your own thing hiring a car is a good idea. The route out of the city is well marked and a drive over the Harbour Bridge will give you wonderful city and harbour views.

    Historic Sites
    There are a variety of historic places in the area. Devonport, one of the first places on the shore to be settled by the Europeans, has a great many turn-of-the-century wooden houses many of which have been carefully restored by their present owners.

    The first organised ferry service from Auckland to Devonport began in 1854 using sail or oar propelled whaleboats. In 1928 a new covered wharf replaced the Victorian structure which has been recently updated to include a number of shops and eateries. Across the road from the ferry building, the Esplanade Hotel in Victoria Street built in 1902 was modelled on English seaside hotels of the period.... reminds me of Brighton in England!

    Old Esplanade Hotel, Devonport
    Old Esplanade Hotel, Devonport
    source - Kate Methven

    A short walk along the front towards Cheltenham Beach will point you up to North Head, a local vantage point. The short climb to the top is well worth the effort as you will be rewarded with delightful views of the harbour, Rangitoto Island and the city from across the other side. North Head was used as a defence point during the World Wars and you can take a walk through the maze of tunnels and view the gun emplacements -it's a good idea to take a torch with you!

    Interested in boats?
    Take a visit to Birkenhead and at the end of Hinemoa Street you will find the S.S. Toroa - the only double-sterned steam ferry in the world. The boat is currently being restored but tours are usually available at week-ends.

    Marae visit
    If you would like to visit a marae(Maori Meeting House) and learn about Maori culture, the Awataha Marae in Akoranga Drive, Northcote, is a modern urban marae on a historic site and well worth a visit. The land on the northern side of the marae is known in Maori Mythology as Te Kopua o Matakamokamo - one of the footsteps of the god of volcanoes (Mataaho). The land is the homeland of Te Kawerau a Maki, who have occupied the area for over 1000 years. For more information phone (09) 486-5467.

    Beaches
    Beautiful golden sandy shores and safe swimming make this area an attractive place for family holidays and outings. There are numerous places to choose from and many have tree-shaded grassy reserves close by as well as changing facilities. If you drive around the coast road from Takapuna northwards to Long Bay you will pass many delightful bays - Milford, Castor Bay, Mairangi Bay Rothesay Bay to name a few.

    Why not take a picnic and stop 'en route' where the fancy takes you.
    If you are visiting by ferry, Devonport has a reserve area a stone's throw from the ferry building. If you are prepared to walk on along the front for about 10 minutes you will come to Cheltenham Beach, a great favourite for many visitors. McHugh's Restaurant on the beach front serves a wonderful buffet lunch daily- great views of Rangitoto Island.

    Shopping Centres
    North Shore City has many good shopping centres the main one being Shore City Mall at Takapuna. Situated not far from the beach you can enjoy the best of both worlds in this relaxed but upmarket centre.

    Devonport has a more 'old worldly' feel to it with its antique and craft shops, interesting specialist shops and pavement cafes.....certainly my favourite place for buying new or not so new books - a great selection! Mairangi Bay, Browns Bay and Milford are all reasonably sized shopping centres within easy walking distance to the beach.

    Regional Parks
    There are five regional parks within easy reach of North Shore City which provide excellent facilities with barbecue/picnic areas, walkways and beautiful sandy, safe beaches. Long Bay Regional Park at the northern end of North Shore City has an extensive reserve next to the beach and plenty of picnic places . From the northern end of the beach you can take a track over to two smaller bays on the Okura River estuary. From the southern end you can walk around to Torbay.

    Shakepear Park is only 45 minutes by car from central Auckland and a great place for a camping holiday. Set in acres of reserve land the campsite has minimum facilities (cold water showers and no kitchens) but at $8 a night per adult and $3 for children, no crowding and a wonderful beach at your door, who can complain? Pack the barbie or primus stove and enjoy the great outdoors. (Camping equipment can be hired from several places in the city and on the shore). However, a permit must be obtained from the Auckland Regional Parks Office in Auckland before setting out.

    Beach at Shakepear Park, Boxing Day
    Beach at Shakepear Park, Boxing Day.
    Where are all the people?
    This is New Zealand!
    source - Kate Methven

    Other parks just further north are Wenderholm, Mahurangi and Tawharanui (all with basic camping facilities).

    Choosing a Base
    For those who wish to spend a few days or more in the Auckland region here are some alternative options to staying in a city hotel...

    1. Hire some gear and camp at one of the Regional Parks listed above - a back-to-basics experience! (Car hire recommended.)

    2. Book yourself into a homestay - bed/breakfast. New Zealanders are latecomers into this kind of hospitality but most advertised places provide excellent service. I've travelled the country using homestay accommodation and have met some delightful people and stayed in some interesting places (a converted nunnery, a fisherman's crib, a miner's cottage to name a few). Devonport or Takapuna would be ideal bases - if you have no transport, Devonport would be my recommendation.

    3. For more upmarket accommodation why not take the ferry from Auckland to the new master-planned integrated resort community at Gulf Harbour on the Whangaporoa Peninsula just 40 minutes from Auckland and a few minutes from Shakepear Park. The centre of this development is the Marine Village which offers a diverse European style complex for people who love the sea.

    Villas, apartments and condominiums are scattered along a delightful waterway most with their boats moored only metres away.... Restaurants, sidewalk cafes and a few specialty shops are already open and the Gulf Harbour Lodge Retreat offers dinner, bed and breakfast at a cost of $169 per person, per night.

    Before you leave enjoy a game of golf at the Gulf Harbour Golf Course which has been chosen as the venue for the World Cup Golf Tournament in 1998.

    Gulf Harbour Apartments/Specialty Shops
    Gulf Harbour Apartments/Specialty Shops source - Kate Methven

    So the choice is yours. Take the opportunity to enjoy something a little different whilst you are visiting New Zealand.

    You won't be disappointed.


    Published with permission from NZine